Beijing aroma garment and adornment Co., Ltd.   

Source: Alomar

A good suit has strict requirements for tailoring, fabrics, accessories and so on. When a suit is produced, it needs about four major processes and more than 300 small processes. The different processes determine the quality of suits. At present, the popular technology can be summed up to four kinds.

1. Adhesive lining (Fused).

The adhesive lining is a modern suit technology. Both the front and the head of the suit need to be adhered with a layer of lining cloth, and the lining of the chest is lined with adhesive to keep the suit neat. More than 95% of the domestic brand suits and more than 80% of western suit brands also use this technology.

Advantages: the technology of adhesive lining is relatively simple, suitable for large-scale pipeline production, with high productivity and low cost.

Disadvantages:

1, the suit is smooth, but it is slightly stiff. If the chest is not developed enough, there will be no chest full feeling.

2, wear resistance is not as good as wool lined suits, often wear (1-2 times a week) life is generally less than 3 years.

3, the adhesive lining will destroy some of the ultra-fine wool fabric feel soft and elegant, so advanced fabrics are not suitable for this process.

 

Two, semi woolen lining (Half Canvas)

The classic suit technology is a higher level product than the adhesive lining. From the top down to the waist of the suit, the hairy chest lining is named the half wool lining. Because the front part of the semi woolen lining suit is not adhered to the head, the wool lining and the fabric should be directly sewn on the fabric. This requires the fiber lining of the wool lining and the fabric to be evenly distributed and suitable. At the same time, the fiber barge must reach the woolen lining, that is, the fabric can not be woven and the needle can not penetrate the needle. After the two ends of the fiber end, the natural eversion state is displayed under the condition of not penetrating the needle, so as to achieve the perfect embodiment of the appearance.

Aroma is more commonly used than the ordinary brand of semi woolen suits. The horsehair liner is made of the highest level of genuine horsetail hair and filled with two front and front shoulders and shoulders.

Advantages: it changes the flat and stiff feeling of the head of the adhesive lining suit, even if the client's chest muscle is not developed enough, the head and chest can be more full and natural.

Disadvantages:

1, although there is no need for bonding, the predecessor still needs to be glued with a layer of cloth, which destroys the sense of softness and comfort of advanced fabrics.

2, increase the first step of the fiber barge, greatly increase the process difficulty and working hours, resulting in the increase of cost and selling price.

 

Three. Full Canvas.

The advanced suit technology is completely bonded without adhesives. It relies entirely on the wool lining to match the shape of the suit. The chest lining reaches the bottom of the front of the suit from top to bottom, so it has the name of all wool lining. The technology of all wool lined suits is complicated, and the wool lining process is carried out in a humidity 90% environment, so that the fabric is naturally stretched when it is restored to the weaving environment. It is very time-consuming and time-consuming. There are very few domestic suits in western-style suits, and only top products in imported suits are used. Alomar's full liners are filled with a horsetail liner made of the highest grade real horsetail mane.

Advantage:

1, completely rely on the wool lining to suit the shape of the suit, and feel soft, powerful, comfortable and natural.

2, the fabric does not adhere to any interlining, so it keeps the advanced fabric soft and delicate.

3, the predecessor does not need any interlining, so in the suit, the surface fabric and the middle wool lining can slide when the host moves, thereby reducing the folds of the positive side of the suit, and the overall feeling is more smooth and neat.

Disadvantages:

1, the technology is very difficult. There are very few factories in China that can be made.

2, the production of high environmental requirements, many processes, greatly increasing the cost of suits.

Four, handmade suits (Bespoke)

Top master craft, suit diamond on the crown of the world. Cutting, digging pockets, buttonholes, upper sleeves, internal joints, and barge heads are all done by hand. For example, a buttonhole in a suit jacket only needs more than 10 years of experienced sewing instructors for more than 8 hours to complete.

Advantage:

1, the upper hand shoulder: when people move, the shoulder pads can be slid between layers, so that the allowance can be given and the shoulders will not be shackled.

2, manual buttonhole: Machine lock buttonholes are first opened after the keyhole, easy to form uneven edges in buttonholes, manual buttonholes are first stitched on the clothes, then manually locked, no buttonholes, and buttonholes are more three-dimensional and refined.

3, manual sewing cloth: give each piece of cloth cloth joint allowance, let people in activities to reduce clothing to human bondage.

In one word, a top quality handmade suit: second layers of skin that can move with the host's activity.

Disadvantages:

1, the technical level is very high. It must be made by the top Western-style clothes master.

2, extremely expensive work time, usually 5-8 times the average suit.

3, the price is high.